• Do It Yourself Basement Waterproofing

    Posted on April 14th, 2009 Mark No comments

    Many Basements are often more or less subject to water leakages especially during damp wet climate. waterproofing contractors say Leakages tend to flood the basements leading to a number of serious problems which all can be hard to deal with.

    For example, a downspout that is improperly or incorrectly positioned to drain against the side of the house, can allow water to collect in certain areas that normally have good basement waterproofing and can seep into the cellar.

    A wet basement leak water problem or issue can be fixed by many experienced personnel.

    Basement remodeling and finishing of the basement is a cost-effective home improvement that can cost you a lot of money in the future, should there be a flood, storm, or other cause of heavy water fall, to avoid damage and loss. Finding a basement-remodeling contractor in your area requires some substantial detective work.

    Chronic basement leakage is a serious problem that can destroy furnishings and appliances among other things. Basements can leak out for a throng of many reasons.

    Depending on the topography drainage conditions of the soil and groundwater level it can be possible that the water table might be too high. If only once a year the primary pump fails to keep up with the volume of water you will have extensive water damage. Each year thousands of homeowners who have basement waterproofing systems will flood at any rate. Cracks can form as soon as the concrete is poured.

    So it’s best to get the basements waterproofed beforehand, so as to avoid serious problems that might be caused later by heavy water damage. Check for foundation cracks.

    The steps to be followed for the basement waterproofing process are as follows:

    1) The first and foremost thing you would do is prepare the substrate. This meaning remove any loose or unstable crumbly substrate, make sure the substrate is clean, dry, and free of any previous applied products, and foreign matter.

    2) Prime the substrate with PermaFlex (240 sq ft per gal). Cement block surfaces need 2 prime coats of PermaFlex. Place the first coat then let dry for about an hour then place another generous coat.

    3) Patch and profile any joints, seams, cracks, holes and rough areas using LRB/TAV mixture (Liquid Rubber Base, Thickening Activator). 2-parts LRB is mixed with 1-part TAV. LRB can be used by itself (as a liquid membrane) to smooth out a rough floor. Wall/floor junctions require a 1″ diameter bead of LRB/TAV mixture and most cracks use a 3/4″ diameter bead.

    4) Topcoat using PermaFlex (240 sq ft per gal).

    Poured concrete basements mostly tend to need a total of 2 coats PermaFlex; on the walls and floors. Concrete block walls need a total of 3 coats PermaFlex because blocked walls are extremely porous. Once the Sani-Tred products have been applied, water, moisture or vapor can never enter the basement. PermaFlex can be brushed, rolled or even sprayed! Sani-Tred products also eliminate problem radon.

    Thus you can make your basement waterproofed and make your house worth living at the same time!

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